Cabinet Re-work: Doors

Chopping mortise waste

Trimming waste at base of chop cuts

Doors and drawers in place-ready for the next step

Not too exciting at this point- but after making a few adjustments to the doors, I'll be ready to mortise for and install a couple panels and the latches. 

Setting a Drawer Pull

Mortise location marked on drawer front

Knifing inside mortise lines

Exposing edges of mortise

Removing waste with a chisel

Flattening mortise bottom with router plane

Setting router plane for deeper cut

Marking drawer face location on pull stock in mortise

Marking location of sloped edge from drawer face line

Sawing to sloped line

Shooting to finish sloped side

Trimming outside corners

Planing edges

Softening edges and ends with a sanding block

Carving recess on bottom of pull

Pull installed dry

Drawer in place with pull

I'll leave the pull in place without gluing until after the front of the cabinet has been carved.  It is much easier to carve the drawers without the pulls in place.

Cabinet Re-Work: re-facing Drawer

Gluing new 1/4" basswood front to drawer

Planing bottom edge flush

Sawing off excess height

Sawing ends nearly flush with flush-cutting saw

Planing ends to fit opening

Planing top edge to fit opening

Drawer in place

 

 

This cabinet just wasn't working for me, so I planed off the drawer faces.  After re-facing the drawers I will make new doors and latches, then I will re-carve the front of the cabinet, re-paint it, and hang it. 

Just a Little Carving

Carving a low-relief tile

Small Mortise and Tenon Box, finished

Front

Back

Carving through paint is something I have done before and liked, but this was different in a way I had not anticipated.  In the past I painted the box completely then carved the design, which leaves a nice, crisp line the color of the wood.  

This time, since the designs were already carved, when I painted the paint was layered in the carved designs.  I used 3 colors- 1 coat of blue paint, 2 coats of sage green, and multiple coats of an ochre color.

When I re-carved the designs the layering of color was exposed, and the exposure varies- I think this is due to the different angles at which I held the tool as it moved through the design.  I'm happy with how this turned out, so I will likely do more with the technique.

Small Mortise and Tenon Box, continued

Marking lid in shifted position

Shooting lid to fit in shifted position

Carving side of box

Painting carving

Scraping paint off around carving

Too much bleeding at scraped carving

My intention was to paint the carving, scrape the surface clean, then wax the box and leave only the carving painted- but the paint bled into the area surrounding the carving.  So I will have to try something different- to be continued...

Small Mortise and Tenon Box, continued

Marking side rabbet

Marking end rabbet

Marking edge for rabbet

Knifing shoulder lines

Starting end shoulders

Trimming outside edge of end rabbet

Working shoulder area of rabbet

Working across the full end rabbet

Working down from knife line to shoulder

Exposing side rabbet shoulders

Planing side shoulder with shoulder plane

Top mostly fit

Small Mortise and Tenon Box, continued

Planing ends of bottom board flush

Planing sides of bottom board flush

Flattening top on sandpaper/glass

Softening box edges